Wednesday, 18 December 2013

Ansteys Cove 7c+ !!

Now I'm excited and psyched!! A pretty normal sport climbing day out resulted in me coming home super psyched and happy! here's what happened...

Sunday, 3 November 2013

Wintours LEAP

My second attempt at Wintours. Harness packed the night before! Me, Chris and Dave now heading towards a vertical world of fun and adventure. First up, Surrealist (E1 5b)

Wet Cheddar Aid practice

Just a quick post. Me and Chris were intending to head to Cheddar for a few sport routes. However, the weather was against us and the crags were piss wet! So instead, we came to the conclusion that we need to develop some Aid climbing techniques. Armed with a full rack of trad gear, a single sky hook, etires made from quickdraws and slings and a nut key, we started up a 6b sport route.

We managed to aid to the first bolt, and then the wall went blank. No micro wire could be placed as the crack was too small. Deploy the sky hook! it worked, but now we need another... what have we got that is sky hook shaped in our rack?

Answer: A nut key! And amazingly, it worked better than the sky hook, as the sky hook ripped but the nut key held! But that too still wasn't enough to stop chris taking a rather impressive fall when a piece of gear he weighted ripped.

So here's to learning how to aid climb properly, with proper aid gear...

Saturday, 5 October 2013

Rocking the Haytor Lobster

After my last fail forgetting my harness, I was determined to set things right! And so, I set off to Haytor on Dartmoor with Dave and Chris and met up with Pablo at the car park.

Saturday, 15 June 2013

out of Action!!

I geared up below a climb. My first E3 at Fairy Cave Quarry. I scan the rock, looking for clues to break the sequence to success: gear, holds, somewhere for feet, the crux. I'm ready. Balancing delicately up the slab, smearing against the smooth limestone to reach a higher match stick foot hold. I make the good hand hold at 4 metres, then gain a standing position on it. Out to my left is a small weakness in the rock. I manage to arrange a size 0 DMM Brass offset in this crack. The harder I tug, The more it seats the placement. This gives me the courage to climb higher. I step up, gain a hand hold on the concretion at 8m...

Monday, 1 April 2013

Three's a crowd...No it's not!

Chris had mentioned that for a while now, the North ridge of Tryfan (I/II) had been on his wish list. So, we decided to head up and do it the next morning. Little did we know the new friend we'll be making today

Idwal Skills

Just a quick post.

After an amazing day on the black ladders, me and Chris headed over to the other side of the valley and into Idwal. We had a few routes in mind but the only one free at the time of arrival was Chicane Gully (III, 4). Although, there was a team on the second pitch. We waited at the base, gearing up and out of the fall line of the ice they were knocking off! I did contemplate Grecian 2000 at this time, but decided against it for some unknown reason.

Black 'Leash' Ladders

I must admit, I've neglected this blog for the past month or two. After my last winter trip to North Wales of the season, I jetted off to Egypt to visit my girlfriend studying out there. Ever since i got back, I've been pretty busy. So finally I've gotten round to updating it. And so...

Sunday, 3 March 2013

Trinity Threesome

The night gave way to morning as the cold, clear sky above Pen Y Pass began to glow a light shade of orange. The frosty blanket covering my bivi bag had woken me long before my alarm, but I burrowed my head into the warmth of a goose down cocoon and waited for the jingle to wake the car park. Cold with clear skies. Perfect day for winter climbing on Snowdon. 

Sunday, 24 February 2013

Clogwyn Du food theif!

Idwal or Clogwyn? Or maybe somewhere else? Oh the joys of deciding where to go in the winter climbing game. It had been cold all week, and ice was forming. But how good will this ice be? And what will the conditions be like higher up?

Saturday, 9 February 2013

Lakes Winter Climbing

The Lakes is in. But Wales is closer. But routes have been done in the lakes... Decisions. This was the basis of mine and Tim's talk during the week building up to the weekend. In the end, we decided on the Lakes, and quite right we were...

Wednesday, 30 January 2013

Training plan

I've now started to get serious with training after getting my psyche back this weekend with some winter climbing! My previous training programme was neglected some what, with me not really sticking to it and doing the odd session a week. But now, after writing up a few new core and upper body training plans, I'm starting to get more motivated and addicted to training.

Sunday, 27 January 2013

Snowdonia Winter Conditions

Just to elaborate more on the last post, The conditions in North Wales are now very poor. When leaving the Idwal valley yesterday, routes such as The Curtain and Screen had both collapsed. The Devils Pasture was falling apart and even the Appendix had masses of water pouring down it. All other routes had poor ice, very brittle in places and thin. And a vast majority of the routes were slushy snow with water running down every where.

All in all, the thaw has hit hard with nearly no ice routes left in condition. With any luck, this isn't winter over. And in the words of a friend:

"lets hope this is a freeze thaw, not a thaw thaw"

North Wales Ice Climbing

This week has been a bout of disappointment. At first I missed out on a night climb of Torpantau falls in South Wales with Tim, which turned out to be a blessing any way as he didn't even reach the falls. And secondly, Chris had to work at the weekend and Tim was already in Wales, so no climbing partners were free. So, I posted on UKC for a partner, with the slim chance that someone would answer.

Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Seven Mile throb (E5 6b) Cont'

The route pretty much follows the line of the biggest tree sapling in the bottom left of the picture, through the overlaps/roofs and onto the top section of the slab at the obvious stepped corner.

Some readers of my blog may remember this Post a few weeks backs about an E5 project at Fairy Cave Quarry. Well, curiosity got the better of me, and so i abseiled down the route to inspect the route at close hand. And how very pleased I had!

Sunday, 20 January 2013

Chard Caves Dry Tooling

I've been desperate to get out winter climbing ever since the first snow fell this season, but have been unable to due to other commitments. And so, after we received our first dusting of snow in Somerset, I dusted off the axes, and headed off to Chard Caves.