After my long drive down to North Wales, I pulled into Betws Y Coed for a bite to eat and a drink while waiting for Chris to drive down from Scotland. At 22:30, I left the comfort and crowds of the pub, £20 lighter after buying a burger and a few drinks, and made my way to the car park behind Joe Brown's in Capel Curig. No soon than I arrived, Chris pulled up. We packed kit fro the following morning, discussed where to go and finally settled in for the night. Sleeping in my car was now a norm to me: Slide back the passenger seat, put it down, fold out duvet and sleep.
We set off the next morning for Craig Bwlch Y Moch on the A498 to Tremadog. Conveniently situated near a cafe, Eric's cafe. So we geared up, and set off across the road into the woodland shrouding the crag. Now the guide book does state "Finding the base of a route at Craig Bwlch Y Moch is sometimes harder than climbing it". And how right this was! More on this in a minute.
|Craig Bwlch Y Moch from Eric's Cafe|
|Chris on the 'crux' pitch|
|Just below the roof|
|Old skool 'nut'|
|NOT VS type placements!|
|Abbing off the route|
We headed back to the car so I could collect my chalk bag which i had forgotten earlier in the morning, and decided to have lunch in the cafe. After this, we headed off to find and climb 'One Step In The Clouds (VS 4c)'. However there was a party just starting up it, so we opted for 'Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b)' which, again, had a party starting up it. So instead, we did 'Grim Wall (VS 4c)'. I lead the first pitch, which consisted of super thin flakes and good gear. After setting up the belay and bringing Chris up, he then started on the second pitch. It was getting late, and we had dinner plans with my cousin who was up in North Wales for the weekend. So Chris traversed across to the belay of 'Grim Wall direct' and I followed bare foot and then abbed off.
And so, the day drew to a close. We met with my cousin and her husband, had a few drinks and discussed taking them climbing the next day on the Cwm Cneifon arete. However, when leaving their cottage in Beddgelert, It hammered down. And continued all through the night and through the next day. So me and Chris went to watch 'Skyfall' at the cinema instead :)